This is a specific care sheet for Tanzanian Redclaw Scorpions (Pandinus cavimanus), for more in this genus see Category:Pandinus.

Tanzanian Redclaw Scorpion care sheet Pandinus cavimanus An adult Tanzanian Redclaw scorpion. Scientific classification Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Arthropoda Subphylum: Chelicerata Class: Arachnida Subclass: Dromopoda Order: Scorpiones Suborder: Neoscorpiones Family: Scorpionidae Subfamily: Scorpioninae Genus: Pandinus Species: P. cavimanus

The Red Claw Scorpion (Pandinus cavimanus) is more aggressive than the popular Emperor Scorpion, and for this reason they are generally not recommended for beginners. The Red Claw Scorpion is described as relatively easy to care for, and is usually not difficult to obtain. Most humans do not suffer excessively by the Red Claw Scorpion’s mild sting. Those who have been stung compare it to a bee sting. Though they are fairly safe, they should still be treated with respect and can be dangerous. Even an adult who has been stung several times could develop hypersensitivity to their sting. Children and those allergic to their sting could face fatal consequences if stung. For this reason, they should always be handled with respect and care.

Also known as the “Tanzanian Redclaw,” the Red Claw Scorpion is among the most popular scorpions kept by hobbyists today.

Tanzanian Redclaw scorpion habitat

The Tanzanian redclaw scorpion should be provided with an enclosure of atleast 10 gallons in volume because it is so large in size. Vertical room is not really a priority as they prefer to stay at ground level. Floor space is important to allow places for your scorpion to explore, and an improvised shelter such as a hollow log or a decorative cave used in aquariums should also be included.

Substrates for Tanzanian redclaw scorpions

Pandinus are tropical rainforest species that come from Africa and require warm, humid conditions. Their captive environments should mimic their natural habitat. A deep layer (6-7cm) of peat-free compost should be placed in the terrarium, this can be covered with orchid bark chippings. The substrate should be sprayed with water every day or so but never to a degree that it becomes very wet. Care should be taken that the substrate does not become mouldy or covered in fungus.

Temperature for Tanzanian redclaw scorpions

Temperature and humidity equipment

This species requires temperature ranges of between 21.1-29.4°C (70-85°F). A temperature gradient is important to allow the scorpion to regulate their body temperature as needed. The easiest way to provide the gradient is by using a heating mat designed for use under reptile tanks. This should be placed under no more than about 1/3 of the tank, so your pet can move from warmer to cooler temperatures if desired. However, to ensure the temperatures are being provided you should monitor them by using accurate thermometers in a few locations within the enclosure.

Humidity for Tanzanian Redclaw scorpions

They should be kept in a humid environment of between 75-80%, and this can be achieved by providing a shallow water dish and misting regularly as necessary. To successfully maintain the desired humidity conditions for your Tanzanian Redclaw Scorpion you are going to need a hygrometer. A hygrometer is a device used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure.

Feeding Tanzanian redclaw scorpions

In the wild, they eat insects, frogs, small mice and other small animals. Contrary to popular belief the Red Claw does not use its sting to capture prey unless the prey is considered a threat. Rather they use their claws, this is why they have such powerful pincers and only a mild sting, because rather than poison by stinger they can crush their prey with their claws. Captive Red Claw Scorpions can be fed small anoles, roaches, crickets, locust or pinky mice.

Breeding Tanzanian redclaw scorpions

Breeding red claw scorpions can be more difficult than breeding some other scorpion species. If the male and female do not deem each other suitable for mating they may fight.

Prepare a habitat able to house two scorpions for at least 1 week, providing a flat surface for your scorpions’ courtship. This can be a rock, slate tile or broken crockery. Introduce the male and female scorpion in the enclosure and allow them to settle. It may take some time however mating will occur when the male and female scorpion are both ready; a courtship dance will take place between the mating pair before the male scorpion locks his chelae with the female scorpion’s chelae and leads the female with rhythmic manoeuvres. It may seem as if the scorpions are fighting; mating involves them grasping each other’s pincers and moving back and forth.

Tanzanian redclaw scorpion mating dance

During the mating dance the male scorpion will deposit his spermatophore on the provided flat surface. He will then manoeuvre the female scorpion over it so she can take it into her genital opening. Once you have noticed that the female has grown larger due to pregnancy is a good idea to remove the male scorpion and place him into another enclosure. Keeping your pregnant female scorpion in her own, adequately maintained tank ensures minimal disturbance during pregnancy and birthing. Stress can severely upset scorpion pregnancies and can even result in cannibalism when the offspring are born.

Tanzanian redclaw scorpion birthing

Birth takes place after around 9 months for most scorpions; however this can be affected by several factors such as species, temperature and feeding. It is important to be patient and not stress out the female scorpion during this period but to keep a look out for birthing. Newly birthed, scorpions are almost colourless and will quickly climb onto their mothers’ back. Often the female will not feed until the young have moulted into 2nd instar. It will take about a week or two, depending on temperature for the 1st instar to moult. At this time it is most important to maintain the humidity, through misting and keeping the substrate moist.

Once the scorplings moult into 2nd instar and leave the mother’s back you can separate the babies from the adults, creating a similar habitat for them as for the adults. Raising the young in the adult tank may deal no problems however it is still possible that they will be cannibalised by the larger scorpions.

After the young have moved on, the mother scorpion will start to feed again so begin to offer her plenty of food in order to replenish herself and regain lost weight.

Raising Tanzanian redclaw scorplings

After the young moult and leave the mother you can separate them into smaller enclosures. You can keep the young of Pandinus together without problems as they are not the cannibalistic type as many Buthids. Provide the essential deep moist substrate, large shallow water dish hiding places such as cork bark or up turned plant pot. The scorplings will now be hungry so begin to offer them something to eat such as pinhead crickets or sliced up adults crickets, and other small insects.

Ailments

Scorpions are generally quite hardy and adaptable if they are provided with the correct environment. A few signs that may indicate that your pet is not acting or feeling normal are a loss of appetite, acting listless or sluggish, having an overly swollen stomach, and missing or deformed limbs. Another problem can be an infestation of mites.

Though many scorpions can go for long periods of time without eating, overfeeding can cause an overly swollen stomach as well as the loss of appetite, and even death. The stomach can be slightly swollen from regular eating, and this is not a problem. Another problem can be an infestation of mites. Uneaten food can attract mites, which are very dangerous and stressful to scorpions. Be sure to remove old food.

Moulting

One of the most common reasons for death in scorpions is during moulting. Scorpions have a tough outer covering, a cuticle, that forms a rigid exoskeleton. All scorpions must shed their old exoskeleton and secrete a new one in order to grow, this is called the moult. Scorpions will moult from 6 to 10 times during their lifetime. This moulting process takes a lot of energy and they are very vulnerable for a couple of days after the moult until their new skin hardens. For about 24 hours prior to moulting it is not unusual for a scorpion to get quite sluggish. A difficult moult can result in lost or deformed limbs, or death. This is thought to be related to humidity levels. There can be either too much humidity or too little, depending on the species. In captivity a lot of immature scorpions die during the moulting process.

See also