This is a specific care sheet for Mexican Red Rumps (Brachypelma vagans), for more in this genus see Category:Brachypelma.
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Known as the Mexican Red Rump Tarantula this is a species with no red on its legs but a nice red abdomen. It is one of the faster growers of the genus and will live for up to 15 years reaching maturity after 1 or 2. This species can produce amazing burrows.
| Tarantula Information (for a more detailed Tarantula care review see Tarantula Care Sheets | |
| Regions Found: | Belize, Central America, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico |
| Class: | Burrowing. This species loves to burrow. |
| Longevity: | Fast growing and mature in 1 or 2 years. Females live for up to 15 years. |
| Adult Size: | 10 to 13cm |
| Temperament: | Skittish but docile |
| Urticating Hairs: | Yes but would rather run and hide |
| Venom Potency: | Unknown |
| Brachypelma vagans Housing Requirements | |
| Tarantula Housing: | Floor space is more important than height, a very deep substrate should be provided for burrowing. |
| Temperature: | 25-28°C (77-82.4°F) |
| Humidity: | About 70% |
| Special Requirements: | No special requirements. |
| Breeding Brachypelma vagans Tarantulas | |
| Breeding Difficulty: | Unknown |
| Egg sac size: | Unknown |
| Danger to Male: | Probable sexual cannibalism |
| Brachypelma vagans Diet | |
| Livefood insects such as crickets, locust, butter worms, meal worms, superworms, houseflies and cockroaches. | |
| Recommended Pet Supplies for Brachypelma vagans | |
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Contents
Habitat
Enclosure
A fully grown Mexican Red Rump Tarantula should be provided with an enclosure in the range of 2 to 5 gallons in volume, a secure lid which locks or clips in to place is essential as most tarantulas are strong enough to dislodge an insecure lid and escape.
Substrate
You should cover the bottom of the enclosure with 5-6 inches of ideally shredded coconut husk, but some keepers choose to use peat moss, potting soil or vermiculite. (Some times a mix the aforementioned.) For an individual who has not owned a Tarantula before or who is new to the hobby, It is recommended that one uses only “eco-earth” (brand name version of shredded coconut husk.)
Using items such as bark chips present a risk to the tarantula; if it falls from the top of the cage when it is climbing it is much easier to rupture its abdomen on any sharp or hard object.
Temperature
This species requires temperature ranges of between 22-30°C (70-80°F) (Room temperature). A temperature gradient is important to allow the tarantula to regulate their body temperature as needed. The easiest way to provide the gradient is by using a heating matdesigned for use under reptile tanks. This should be placed under no more than about 1/2 of the tank, so your pet can move from warmer to cooler temperatures if desired. However, to ensure the temperatures are being provided you should monitor them by using accurate thermometers in a few locations within the enclosure.
Humidity
They can be kept in a humid environment of around 70%, and this can be achieved by providing a shallow water dish and misting regularly as necessary. To successfully maintain the desired humidity conditions for your tarantula you are going to need a hygrometer. A hygrometer is a device used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure.
Feeding
The diet of this tarantula is typically insects such as crickets, grass-hoppers, beetles, moths, meal worms and cockroaches. A staple diet of crickets is the only food a Tarantula needs besides water which can be provided in a shallow dish (lid of a jar or bottle cap). Typically these pets should be given two weekly feedings with one to three food items. Uneaten prey should be removed after one day to prevent problems and attracting mites. It is not necessary that food be alive when fed to the Tarantula, if they are hungry and you deposit the food in front of or near the Tarantula by using tongs or long tweezers.
The food provided should be no larger than the abdomen of the tarantula, this is more important for smaller spider-lings or smaller mature Tarantulas.
It is NOT recommended to feed vertebrates (mice, lizards etc.) to the Tarantula for several reasons. 1)Vertebrates present more of physical threat to the tarantula due to their size and strength. They could easily overpower a tarantula and kill it.
2)The fat and protein in the vertebrate has the potential to over feed the tarantula and effectively make it obese which presents a threat to the spider, as if it falls it could more easily rupture.
3)It is said the calcium in the vertebrates can cause problems during molts by causing the exoskeleton to be too hard to push through.
Handling
It is not recommended that you handle your Tarantula, it stresses it out and there is a very high potential for it to run away and inadvertently fall to its death.
IF you do choose to handle your Tarantula sit on your bed, or as close to the floor as possible.
Brachypelma vagans is regarded as a docile and particularly skittish species, and for this reason it is recommended that they should always be handled with care.
Breeding
Care for a spiderling the same as a mature Tarantula:Caring for a spiderling
Smaller water dish or misting. Smaller food (no larger than the abdomen) Smaller container Same heat and slightly elevated humidity.