This is a specific care sheet for Venezuelan Red Slate Pinktoe Tarantulas (Avicularia minatrix), for more in this genus see Category:Avicularia.

The Venezuelan Red Slate Pinktoe tarantula (Avicularia minatrix) is a species of tarantula that is rare but beautiful for any collection. Like the rest of the Avic’s this is an arboreal species meaning they live and hunt high up in trees and other plants. One of the smallest species of tarantula and produces small egg sacs containing less than 50 eggs.

Contents [hide] 1 Venezuelan red slate pinktoe tarantula habitats 1.1 Keeping Venezuelan pinktoes communally 1.2 Substrate 1.3 Heating and Climate 1.3.1 Temperature 1.3.2 Humidity 2 Feeding and hydrating Avicularia minatrix 3 Breeding Avicularia minatrix 4 Gallery of Avicularia 5 See Also

Venezuelan red slate pinktoe tarantula habitats

Venezuelan red slate pinktoe tarantulas can be kept in any kind of container and a vivarium or converted aquarium is ideal. At least one cubic foot (30x30x30 cm, 12x12x12 inch) should be provided for an adult and more height would be enjoyed by an arboreal species such as this. Provide the tarantula with plenty of ventilation, however limited enough to maintain the required humidity. Spiderlings can be kept in waxworm tubs and larger livefood tubs when slightly larger. A nice display tank can be created for larger tarantulas using an aquarium.

Tarantulas do not require plants or decorations, however Avicularia should be provided with somewhere to hide, climb and hunt such as tree branches and foliage. Live plants are not recommended as they tend to die due to heavy webbing and can carry pests that will pass on to your tarantula. Provide some flora for your Pinktoe to reside and build its web and if you want to make your pet’s home more attractive you may choose to further decorate the enclosure. Avoid sharp edges and rough textures that may harm your tarantula.

Keeping Venezuelan pinktoes communally

Unlike other tarantulas, this species can be kept communally with little or no cannibalism. Providing a large environment for the tarantulas is very important and making sure they are of similar size and well fed. All tarantulas are deemed to be cannibalistic and so keeping them communally is generally not recommended.

Substrate

There really is no ideal substrate and most of the time it is really only chosen for aesthetical reasons. Make sure the chosen substrate is not dusty or sharp. Peat free compost is the favoured substrate to use as it holds moisture well. Mould should not be an issue unless the substrate is always very damp.

Heating and Climate

Ensure that you adhere to the specific needs of the Avicularia you are housing. Bear in mind that the warmer you keep your tarantula, the higher its metabolic rate will be and it will therefore want to eat more often and will grow faster. At night temperatures will drop so so simulate this in captivity lower the temperature by 10°F, to give the tarantula a sense of time. Humidity can be provided by moist substrates and a misting bottle. Misting can cause Avicularia to lose their grip of smooth surfaces, so be careful not to squirt it off its perch. The best way to keep the tank humid is to provide a large shallow water bowl and keep the substrate moist.

Temperature

It is important to ensure a temperature gradient is achieved in your tarantula’s enclosure. As in nature, allowing for a temperature gradient puts the tarantula in control of the environment it spends most of its time in. Your tarantula will then choose a suitable region of the enclosure where it feels most comfortable.

The easiest way to provide the gradient is by using a heating mat or under tank heater (UTH) designed for use under reptile tanks, which should be placed under no more than 1/3 of the tank. A dim lamp or small ceramic heater may also be used but always in conjunction with a suitable thermostat. It is important to note that ceramic heaters and lamps will primarily heat the air and in turn raise humidity, whereas UTH’s will above all heat the substrate. Always verify that appropriate temperatures are being provided by using accurate thermometers in a few locations within the enclosure. Refer to more specific tarantula care sheets for thermal gradients.

Humidity

Humidity can be produced by moist substrates and a misting bottle, although the latter may be dangerous to the tarantula. Misting can cause tarantulas to lose their grip on smooth surfaces. The best way to keep the tank humid is to provide a large shallow water bowl and keep the substrate moist. Some of the tarantulas that require a high humidity are Avicularia avicularia, but for most other species humidity shouldn’t be an issue.

To successfully maintain the desired humidity conditions for your tarantula you are going to need a hygrometer. A hygrometer is a device used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure.

Feeding and hydrating Avicularia minatrix

Just like other tarantulas, Avicularia eat insects, reptiles and small rodents up to their own size. Suitable insects include crickets, moths, beetle larvae (meal worms and superworms), houseflies and cockroaches. Although they may take on rodents and reptiles in the wild it is not recommended you feed them in captivity, for complications may arise such as a fatal bite by the food item itself.

When feeding livefoods, although it may be fun, try not to over challenge your Pinktoe by giving it food items that are too large. Stick with something about half the size of the tarantula and remove uneaten food items so they do not cause harm or stress the tarantula. Spiders usually eat massive amounts post-moult until they are full, this is called power feeding. They will refuse food pre-molt or when ready to lay an egg sac. It usually takes about 1 week to 1 month for Avicularia to accept food after a moult, because of the skin and fang hardening process. You can’t really overfeed a tarantula, but this doesn’t mean you should overdo it by giving it 50 crickets after a moult; the tarantula will probably end up killing them all and leaving dead ones uneaten. If this is the case then they should be removed to prevent bacteria and mould growth. The other factor is that a plump abdomen is more prone to rupture if this arboreal species falls from a height.

Avicularia are sometimes troublesome to feed as food items will explore terrestrially and go unnoticed. To encourage feeding try to drop the food items near to the tarantula and so that it lands on the web. You will find that a hungry Avicularia will pounce on any meal that falls nearby.

As with all animals pinktoe tarantulas require a source of drinking water. This can be provided in the form of a shallow container filled with water. A Tarantula’s main source of moisture is in the food it eats, this is especially so for smaller spiderlings which will take water from water droplets when necessary. In general spiderlings up to 2 inches do not require a water bowl but instead you should mist the vivarium and they will collect droplets of water. Be careful not to mist too much as doing so may increase the humidity more than it should be.

Breeding Avicularia minatrix

Breeding of the Avicularia genus is pretty straight forward since they can be kept communally with little chance of cannibalism. It is a fundamental requirement however to make sure their environmental needs are fulfilled as otherwise tarantulas will simply not mate. Avicularia minatrix produce an egg sac containing between 30 and 50 eggs.

The basic steps involved in breeding tarantulas are discussed further:

• Preparation for breeding
• Tarantula breeding
• Looking after an egg sac
• Hatching
• Caring for the female
• Caring for the spiderlings

Gallery of Avicularia

Avicularia avicularia	Avicularia fasciculata	Avicularia versicolor	Avicularia purpurea
Avicularia bicegoi

See Also

Tarantula/Care Sheet

Tarantula/Breeding

Tarantula/Frequently Asked Questions