This is a specific care sheet for Panther Chameleons (Furcifer pardalis), for more in this genus see Category:Furcifer.

The Panther Chameleon lives in the northern and coastal areas of Madagascar. A common misconception of chameleons is that they change colour to match their background and provide camouflage. The colour change is actually determined by environmental factors, such as light and temperature. The colour change is also controlled by their emotions, such as fright, victory, or defeat in disputes. The colour change is rapid and increases when it is handled, injured, or approached by another chameleon. Chameleons have bright colors and patterns to warn other chameleons to stay away. The chameleons have pigment granules that contain color pigment and these pigments disperse, which gives them their colour.

When the chameleons fight they do not always attack. They have a colour-changing contest. The chameleon ‘puffs’ itself up and opens it’s mouth wide. But if the chameleon gets hurt or afraid they will turn a darker colour and show more complicated patterns. The dominant male protects their territory by expanding the body, puffing out the throat, and moving special head flaps. If he fails to deter the intruder, the attacker will charge, potentially snapping his jaws because his mouth was so widely open and vulnerable.

They can also use their colour change to help change their temperature. The chameleons can do this because they are cold-blooded animals and they need this special adaptation to keep themselves warm. When they want to warm up they move into the sun and he turns darker so that the colour will absorb the sun’s energy.

Description

Males are much larger than females. Chameleon’s colours vary greatly from one another. The colours include all the colours of the spectrum. Females usually turn brown and grey when they mature. The female warns males to stay away by turning dark with orange spots. Adult males are 12-17” in length. Females are 7-9”.

The chameleon’s body is flattened from side to side. Their legs project to the side and to the back of them. Their legs are also specially jointed so that all four feet can easily grasp a branch located below their body.

The chameleon’s head has a hard shaped helmet that helps protect it. Their eyes extend out of their head and are covered with scaly skin. Both eyes can turn on their own to look in different directions at the same time. Vision is more important to the chameleon than their sense of smell. Their main defense mechanism is their visual awareness.

Chameleons tails are prehensile, which means that they can use their tails to hold onto objects. The tails are sometimes curled. Also, the tail provides additional support for catching prey.

The feet of the chameleon are V-shaped and perfect for grabbing branches. On the front two feet each one has two toes on the outside and three toes on the inside. On the hind feet there are three toes on the outside and two toes on the inside. By the toes being specailly positioned, they assist greatly in balancing.

Their tongue is very special and helps them catch their food. It is very long and has a ‘sticky’ tip. The tongue is folded on the tip of a bone that helps supports it. The chameleon then ‘fires’ the tongue off the bone, like a catapult, to catch its prey. The chameleon catches its prey the same way a frog catches it’s food. The length of the tongue is greater than the length of the chameleons body.

Choosing a Chameleon

Preparing a home for a Panther ChameleonWhen choosing a chameleon you should spend the time to search for a breeder that specialises in producing captive bred offspring (sometimes labelled as CB) these deal with captivity far better than any wild collected animal. Get to know your chosen breeder and get a feel for their dedication to their animals. By going on quality you will have have years of enjoyment from your chameleon.

Housing size

Chameleons should never be kept in a glass terrarium – they need the ventilation provided by a mesh enclosure. Vertical space is essential and a cage size of 36 inches by 24 inches and atleast 36-48 inches tall is recommended (the bigger and taller the better – chameleons like to climb high up off the ground). An outdoor cage can be used when the weather is warm enough, as long as over heating is prevented.

Substrates

No specific substrate is needed for a Panther Chameleon, as they are prevalent tree-dwellers and reside on branches and plants. Simply cover the floor of the enclosure with reptile carpet, paper towel, or a cloth towel.

Hiding places

Drinking

It is recommended that you use a dripper bottle that drips water onto the leaves and branches in the enclosure. Chameleons will drink off of the leaves, it is unusual for them to drink from a water dish.

Decor

Provide lots of sturdy non-toxic plants and branches. Ficus trees have often been used in chameleon housing, but require some caution as the sap can be irritating. Other plants you could try include pothos, hibiscus, and dracaena. Artificial plants may also be added, and artificial vines are a great addition. A good selection of branches (of different diameters) should be provided, making sure there are secure perches at different levels and temperatures within the cage.

Lighting

Chameleons require exposure to UV light for between 10-12 hours a day. These bulbs should be replaced every six months. You should also try to provide your chameleon with access to natural sunlight, preferably outside in the fresh air, so long as temperature and weather conditions are suitable.

Temperature

A daytime temperature gradient of 24-32°C (75-90°F) should be provided, with a basking spot at 35°C (95°F). At night, they should have a temperature drop of about 5-10°C (10-15°F). If your home doesn’t drop below 18-21°C (65-70F) at night, heating at night isn’t necessary. Heating is best accomplished by a basking or incandescent light in a reflector or a ceramic heat element, any of which should be placed outside of the cage to prevent your chameleon burning itself.

Humidity

Panther chameleons require a relatively high humidity range of between 65-80% and this can be achieved by providing a large shallow water bowl and by misting the enclosure regularly.

A hygrometer can be used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure and additional humidity can be provided by misting the tank regularly with a misting bottle. Chameleons rarely drink from a water bowl, but they will lap up droplets of water off plants, so the misting/drip system also serves as a water source. Position a drip system so the water droplets cascade over the plants within the enclosure.

Reducing ventilation may seem an easy way to increase the humidity but this can also lead to the air in the habitat becoming stagnant which will without a doubt lead to the death of any pet chameleon.

Misting is by far the best way to hydrate a chameleon. They solve many problems associated with drippers. Misting-system prices range from $59 to $159. They offer the benefit of hands-free watering. The biggest advantage is that a misting system can prevent many health problems assocated with over and under watering. We strongly recommend that you invest in one if your budget permits.

Many high-end misting systems come with digital timers. The problem is that these timers have a minimum duration of 1 minute. This can also lead to over watering. To correct this, there are timers that have a minimum duration of 1 second. Ideally, you should mist for 30 seconds, 4 times a day.

Feeding

Hatchlings

Food should be offered three times a day to new-borns and juveniles. They will eat silk worms, roaches, grasshoppers, and a variety of other bugs.

All food should be dusted with vitamin mineral supplements for young animals but adults only require their food dusting twice a week.

Adults

Food should be offered once a day to adult panther chameleons and they require between 30-50 large crickets a week to maintain a healthy weight and physical well being. Panther chameleons will eat all the usual insects available; Locusts, crickets, waxworms, moths, tebo worms, flies and giant mealworms. Large adult males will also eat pinkie mice. In the wild they will also take small lizards, frogs and large spiders. Always select appropriately sized insect prey for your chameleon, using your own judgement to determine whether your pet will struggle with the offering.

Adults should have their food dusted with vitamin mineral supplements twice a week.

Never leave uneaten prey within the enclosure, if they are dead they will attract mites and if they are still alive they will severely irritate and may even inflict damage on your chameleon.

It is strongly suggested not too use bugs found outside, as they may have pesticides that can kill your chameleon. Also, use waxworms in limited amounts, if at all. They contain little nutritional value, and although relished by lizards, contain high amounts of fat.

Supplements

There are many different and often contradictory opinions on supplementation. Calcium, D3, and vitamin supplementation are necessary for your chameleon. However, supplementation will depend on what you feed your Panthers, the bulbs you use, and how much natural sun they receive. Many sources recommend supplementing small chameleons daily and decreasing to once or twice per week for adults. But both too little and too much supplementation can lead to problems. Therefore, we recommend going over this with your vet to find a schedule that suits the specific needs of your lizard. We suggest you supplement your young chameleons daily with a ratio of 1 part Rep-Cal Herptivite to 3 parts Rep-Cal calcium with Vitamin D3.

Health

A healthy chameleon will show the following signs:

• They are active and alert.
• They have visibly healthy skin, with no irritations or contusions.
• Their eyes will be clear from substances such as mucus.
• They will maintain a healthy appetite and eat regularly.
• They will have a clear nose and vent.
• Your chameleons body and tail will have a healthy rounded appearance.

An unhealthy chameleon may display any of the following:

• Mucus in the mouth and/or nose.
• Swelling of the limbs.
• Paralysis of limbs and/or tail.
• Bumps, sores or abrasions on the skin.
• Your chameleon becomes lethargic
• Your chameleon seems to be struggling to breathe
• Abnormal feces
• Visible weight loss or reduced appetite.

Common health problems for Panther Chameleons are:-

Gastro-intestinal disease

Symptoms – Runny stools, caked or smeared stool around the vent area, and loss of appetite caused by bacterial or parasitic infection.

Action – Consult your exotic animal veterinarian immediately.

Metabolic bone/Vitamin Deficiency

Symptoms – Inability to absorb calcium due to insufficient UVB light. If untreated, can lead to a disorder characterised by deformities and softened bones. Swollen limbs and lethargy.

Action – Provide ample UVB lighting and consult your exotic animal veterinarian.

Respiratory Disease

Symptoms – Labored breathing, runny nose, swollen eyes. Can be caused by temperatures that are too cold.

Action – Ensure proper lighting, water and basking conditions. If condition persists, consult your veterinarian.

Breeding

When the male chameleon wants to attract a mate he bobs his head up and down and from side to side to get her attention. If a female wants to mate she will display dull colours, and if the she does not want to mate, her colours will warn him to stay away.

When your female is ready to breed (usually at the age of about 10 months) she will turn a orange/pink colour which indicates to potential mates that she is receptive and ready to breed.

When she does this you can try and introduce her to the males cage and if she stays that colour, and she doesn’t go black or gape her mouth open, this means its likely that she will accept the males courting efforts. If you reach this stage successfully, don’t turn your attention away as these encounters can rapidly turn violent if an over-zealous male is involved. If you note any concerning signs of aggression, segregate the animals immediately.

If the breeding goes to plan your female will fall gravid and totally change her colour to a very dark brown or even black. At this stage it is important that you feed her lots of fatty foods that have been dusted with calcium, and after 3-4 weeks she should begin to show signs of wanting to lay. She will become very active and mainly accomodate the bottom level of the enclosure.

When laying the eggs she will need a big tub with a generous layer of slightly moist sandy soil to lay her eggs in. Laying the egss can be a stressful and lengthy process and can take up to 2 days. Once you are sure that she has finished, place her back in the enclosureand provide more food than usual, so that she can effectively recover from her ordeal.

The females will lay oviparous eggs, and bury them under the dirt and leaves. The females really only visit the ground to lay eggs or to look for a mate. Females lay about thirty eggs after 30-45 days of being fertilized. Incubation last 160-362 days, depending on the temperature. If the eggs stay at a stable temperature they may not hatch. It takes 7-9 months for the eggs to hatch. She does not teach her young how to hunt or how to survive. The babies can reach sexual maturity in just one year. The babies shed colours quickly. Juvenile chameleons take 5-10 months to get their colour.

Handling[edit]

Handling is not really recommended,as they are really more of a display pet than an interactive one. However, if you do decide to handle your chameleon, always wash your hands before and after coming into contact with the animal or it’s enclosure as they can carry salmonella and other infectious diseases.