This is a specific care sheet for Brazilian Salmon Pinks (Lasiodora parahybana), for more in this genus see Category:Lasiodora.

The Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird Eating Tarantula (Lasiodora parahybana) is one of the most popular tarantula species kept as pets due to their enormous size, raw beauty and relative ease of captive breeding. It is considered the third largest tarantula species in the world after the Theraphosa blondi and Theraphosa apophysis. Originating from the east part of the Northeastern Region of Brazil, this spider typically grows to a leg span of 20 cm, although occasionally specimens have been recorded to reach a leg spans of 25 cm. Large females can weigh upwards of 100 grams. They are not recommended for beginners, as they are large, fast tarantulas that are capable of kicking urticating hairs if provoked. In the wild the Brazilian salmon pink tarantula has even been known to prey on the deadly fer-de-lance pit viper snake. Salmon Pink’s make fantastic display tarantulas that spend a lot of time out in the open exploring and hunting to try and satisfy its enormous appetite.

Contents [hide] 1 Housing Brazilian salmon pink tarantulas 1.1 Substrate 1.2 Heating and Climate 1.2.1 Humidity 2 Feeding and hydrating Brazilian salmon pink tarantulas 3 Breeding Lasiodora parahybana tarantulas 3.1 Breeding preparation 3.2 introducing the male and female salmon pink 3.3 Egg sac production 3.4 Spiderlings 3.5 After Care 4 Other names 5 See Also

Housing Brazilian salmon pink tarantulas

L. parahybana are relatively easy to keep in captivity and feed readily provided they are maintained in ideal conditions such as habitat and climate.

Brazilian salmon pink’s can be kept in any kind of container like a vivarium or converted aquarium. At least one cubic foot (30x30x30 cm, 12x12x12 inch) should be provided for an adult however more floor space would be enjoyed by this large terrestrial and burrowing species. Too much height should be avoided because of the huge size of these spiders; a rough fall may rupture the abdomen, and ultimately lead to death. Height can be adjusted by deepening the substrate or adding an artificial roof.

Make sure to provide the tarantula’s enclosure with plenty of ventilation, however it must be limited enough to maintain the required humidity. Spiderlings can be kept in waxworm tubs, however these will be outgrown quickly something larger such as a livefood tub may be more suiting. A display tank can be created for larger tarantulas using an aquarium or vivarium. Tarantulas do not require plants or decorations, however they can offer somewhere to hide, climb and hunt, although a hide is not necessary, and will probably be ignored by most species of tarantula. If you want to make your pet’s home more attractive you may choose to further decorate the enclosure. Avoid sharp edges and rough textures that may be harmful.

Substrate

The terrarium should be furnished with a deep substrate (peat, moss, vermiculite or a mixture of each is popular in the hobby. Substrates are often chosen for aesthetical reasons, however dusty or sharp substrate should be avoided. Peat free compost is a good substrate as it holds moisture well and will allow a terrestrial species like the Brazilian salmon pink to burrow in. Mould should not be an issue unless the substrate is always very damp.

Heating and Climate

Create a temperature gradient in your tarantula’s enclosure by having different temperatures throughout the tank. As in nature, allowing for a temperature gradient puts the tarantula in control of the environment it spends its time in and your tarantula will then choose a suitable region of the enclosure where it feels most comfortable. For Lasiodora parahybana it is advisable to offer a temperature gradient of between 25-28 °C (77-82.4 °F) from one end of the tank to another.

The easiest way to provide the gradient is by using a heating mat or under tank heater (UTH) designed for use under reptile tanks, which should be placed under no more than 1/3 of the tank. A dim lamp or small ceramic heater may also be used but always in conjunction with a suitable thermostat and should be fully protected. It is important to note that ceramic heaters and lamps will primarily heat the air and in turn raise humidity, whereas UTS’s will above all heat the substrate. Always verify that appropriate temperatures are being provided by using accurate thermometers in a few locations within the enclosure. Refer to more specific tarantula care sheets for thermal gradients.

Humidity

The Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird Eating Tarantula loves a humid environment, thriving at a relative humidity of between 65–80%. Humidity can be provided by moist substrates and a misting bottle. The best way to keep the tank humid is to provide a large shallow water bowl, keeping the substratedrier is best for this terrestrial burrowing species. To successfully maintain the desired humidity conditions for your tarantula you are going to need a hygrometer. A hygrometer is a device used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure.

Feeding and hydrating Brazilian salmon pink tarantulas

Just like other tarantulas, Brazilian salmon pink’s eat insects, reptiles and small rodents up to their own size. Suitable insects include crickets, moths, beetle larvae (meal worms and superworms), houseflies and cockroaches. Although they may take on rodents and reptiles in the wild it is not recommended you feed them in captivity, for complications may arise such as a fatal bite by the food item itself.

Although it may be fun, when feeding livefoods to your salmon pink try not to over challenge him or her with food items that are too large or strong. Start with something about half the size of the tarantula and remove uneaten food items so they do not cause unnecessary harm or stress. Spiders usually eat large quantities of food post-moult until they are full, a process called power feeding. They will refuse food pre-moult or when ready to lay an egg sac. It usually takes about 1 week to 1 month for tarantulas to accept food after a moult, because of the skin and fang hardening process. You can not really over feed a tarantula, but this doesn’t mean you should overdo it by giving him or her 50 crickets after a moult; the tarantulawill probably end up killing them all and leaving dead ones uneaten. If this is the case then they should be removed to prevent bacteria and growth of mould.

It is important to point out that when feeding rodents to tarantulas, some of the dissolved flesh can be expected to leach into the substrate. The area of substrate should be replaced soon after the feeding to prevent bacterial and mould growth.

As with all animals, brazilian salmon pink tarantulas require a source of clean drinking water; this can be provided in the form of a shallow container filled with water which will also raise the humidity. A tarantula’s main source of moisture is typically in the food it eats, this is especially so for smaller spiderlings which will take water from water droplets when necessary. In general spiderlings up to 2 inches do not require a water bowl but instead you should mist the vivarium and they will collect droplets of water. Be careful not to mist too much as doing so may increase the humidity more than it should be.

Breeding Lasiodora parahybana tarantulas

Lasiodora parahybana are reasonably easy to breed, and after a successful courtship it is likely that the egg sac laid by the female will contain upwards of 2000 eggs. The egg sac size is physically huge and can be up to 3cm in diameter. Nymphs are typically dull coloured and nothing more than eggs with legs, but from the first moult the huge size of this species can begin to be appreciated. Several couplings are sometimes necessary for a successful mating; however it is usually all over in a matter of seconds.

Breeding preparation

If you are sure that you have an adult male and female Lasiodora parahybana you are ready to begin prepare for breeding. An adult female will usually moult every 14-18 months, and so mating should be done before the final 6 months of her cycle to ensure successful courtship. Upon maturing males will lose bulk in their abdomen and legs become long and spindly, this, in addition to the development of emboli attached to the thickened last digit of the pedipalp, looking somewhat like boxing gloves are an indication that he is ready to produce a sperm web and go on to mate. These “boxing gloves”, or emboli, are the bulbs where he will store his sperm after creating a sperm web.

Before he is ready to mate the male will need to produce a sperm web, normally made within a couple of weeks of his maturing moult so keep an eye out if you are expecting this to happen. He will produce a hammock shaped web in a corner of his enclosure, usually above the ground rather than inside his burrow. He will then deposit his sperm in the web by a wriggling motion underneath it. To collect the sperm he then walks over the web hammock and if you look closely at his bulbs, you will see his embolus (a small pointed hook) going into the web and taking the sperm from the web. When he is finished with the sperm web, he will usually destroy it, and the sperm is safely stored in his boxing gloves until he finds a female.

introducing the male and female salmon pink

The male should always be introduced into the female’s enclosure and not the other way round; he should be introduced at the opposite end to the female’s position or burrow if she is hiding. This technique allows the male and female to sense each other’s presence and approach each other with caution, preventing any unwanted fights.

He will now begin to act bizarrely, twitching and dipping his abdomen. Drumming is a common mating communication technique used by tarantulas, he will hit the substrate with his front legs and pedipalps, as he approaches the female, and she may reciprocate with some drumming of her own. They are both analysing each other’s response and deciding if it’s safe to continue.

When their legs first touch, he will keep tapping and rubbing her legs until she goes into a threat-like posture. He will use his first and second pairs of legs to try to lift her up and expose her underside, and continue to insert his embolus into her epigastric furrow and deposit his sperm. This process may take a long time, sometimes a couple of hours will be required, however mating may occur within just a couple of minutes. It is important to keep an eye on them at all times, as you may be required to separate them if a fight breaks out. Do not leave them together for extended periods of time, especially if they do not seem interested with each other, they will irritate each other and the male will probably get eaten.

Attempt several introductions aiming to see the insertion of his embolus into her epigastric furrow on at least two occasions, this way you can be sure she takes his sperm to fertilise her eggs.

Egg sac production

A mated female will begin to eat like she has just moulted. She will need all the energy she can get for egg sac production, and this means feeding her all the food she wants. A plumping abdomen is a good sign that she is ready to lay an egg sac and this can be expected around 6 months after a successful mating. The signs that she is ready to lay an egg sac are the signs similar to an forthcoming moult, i.e. excessive webbing and refusing food. This is the point you should consider taking a step back and letting nature take its course. Disturbing the female may have devastating results on all the hard work reaching this point, a stressed tarantula will destroy and then eat what remains of her egg sac, although this is not too common with salmon pink bird eaters. A female tarantula that is tending to an egg sac may refuse food and it is not necessary to feed her.

L. parahybana are a species that will carry the egg sac around, rotating it and massaging it regularly to allow them to breathe and not sweat. As long as the female is carrying the egg sac, she should not be disturbed at all, any disturbance could result in the egg sacbeing eaten or destroyed. If a female drops the egg sac you may wish to recover it and rear it yourself. For more information on hand rearing egg sacs refer to the tarantula breeding article, which explains how to create a hammock and an artificial rearing chamber.

Spiderlings

After 1-2 months of painstaking watching and waiting the eggs should have grown into eggs with legs, and then later into nymphs. Nymphs will moult once, into second instar nymphs and finally for a third time into first instar spiderlings. You should take the egg sacfrom the mother when you suspect that nymphs have hatched. To do this try to isolate the female from the sac using a cup, and gently remove the egg sac.

Cannibalism is common in tarantulas but rare between nymphs, so separation is not really necessary until the nymphs have completed the moult into spiderlings. Spiderlings of Lasiodora parahybana may tolerate each other’s company for a further 1-2 instars, however there will inevitably be some cannibalism. Separate the spiderlings as soon as possible into appropriate containers such as small spice storage jars, pill jars or waxworm tubs.

After Care

It is possible for the female to lay a second egg sac so she must be fed well and left to rest after her ordeal. If a second egg sac is not produced she will probably moult and, in which case lose what remains of the male’s sperm. She can now regain strength and prepare for another mating, if you are lucky enough to find an adult male.

Egg sacs usually contain some 1500 eggs but have been known to reach over 2000, which is why you can expect to find these for sale cheaply almost everywhere.

Other names

Lasiodora parahybana, Salmon Pink Birdeater, Salmon Pink Bird Eating Tarantula, Salmon Pink Tarantula, Brazilian Salmon Pink Tarantula, Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird Eating Tarantula, Brazilian Pink Haired Birdeater, and Brazilian Pink Haired Bird Eating Tarantula.

See Also

Tarantula/Care Sheet

Tarantula/Breeding

Tarantula/Frequently Asked Questions