This is a specific care sheet for Yellow Fattail Scorpions (Androctonus australis), for more in this genus see Category:Androctonus.

The Yellow Fattail Scorpion also known as the Fat Tailed Scorpion (however, this name is also shared with A. crassicauda), Black Tip Fattail Scorpion, Fat Tail Scorpion and the Yellow Desert Scorpion.

Introduction

Native to the deserts and sandy terrain in Northern Africa, the Yellow Fattail Scorpion is a terrestrial species that lives under rocks and other shelter. They avoid coastal areas or anywhere that is high humidity. Most are not known for burrowing, but they do hide under rocks. Some individuals may burrow from time to time. Unfortunately, their hiding places are often located near humans. For example, the Yellow Fattail Scorpion often hides in crevices in walls made of stone or brick.

This species is a lot more common in captivity than the Deathstalker and the Black Fattail, two other very dangerous scorpions, which is why more people tend to be injured by this species than the others. The Yellow Fattail Scorpion’s venom can be fatal within hours and while an anti-venom exists, it isn’t practical because the total success rate associated with the anti-venom is low.

Most people suggest that keeping of these scorpions be left to professionals.

Description

The Yellow Fattail Scorpion gets its name from the powerful and thick cauda. It is a medium sized scorpion, averaging about 10 centimeters in length. They are yellow with darker pincers.

Habitat

Enclosure

They should be kept in a medium sized tank, 2.5 to 5 gallons.

Substrate

They should have a substrate of 2-3 inches sand, potting soil, vermiculite or peat moss.

Temperature

The temperature requirements for A. australis are between 24-29.4°C (75 – 85°F). A temperature gradient is important to allow your scorpion to regulate their body temperature as needed. The easiest way to provide the gradient is by using a heating mat designed for use under reptile tanks. This should be placed under no more than about 1/3 of the tank, so your pet can move from warmer to cooler temperatures if desired. Always verify that appropriate temperatures are being provided by using accurate thermometers in a few locations within the enclosure.

Humidity

A. australis requires a humidity of approximately 50%. To successfully maintain the desired humidity conditions for your scorpion you are going to need a hygrometer. A hygrometer is a device used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure.

Feeding

Baby scorpions can be fed crushed pinhead crickets. Adults will eat crickets or other large insects.

Special

It has been reported that some specimens are capable of flicking venom from their tails. Though this species does not have the ability to spray venom with accuracy. The South African Spitting scorpion is the only known scorpion species to have any precision in its spraying of venom.

Breeding

Female scorpions are often bulkier and have thinner pincers than the males. However, these differences are usually subtle. The pectines on the underside of scorpions can be inspected to give the you an idea of their scorpion’s gender. Place the scorpion in a clear plastic tub and hold it up to inspect the underside. Typically, males have longer combs on their pectines and females have shorter and often fewer combs on their pectines.

During courtship the male grasps the pincers of the female and begins a shaking action known as “juddering�?. Then, after a short shoving match, the male deposits a spermatophore onto the substrate and positions the female over the packet of sperm. The female lowers her abdomen and picks up the spermatophore into her genital opening. The two separate and often beat a hasty retreat in opposite directions. Females will usually give birth to approximately 12 scorplings.

Ailments

Scorpions are generally quite hardy and adaptable if they are provided with the correct environment. A few signs that may indicate that your pet is not acting or feeling normal are a loss of appetite, acting listless or sluggish, having an overly swollen stomach, and missing or deformed limbs. Another problem can be an infestation of mites.

Molting

One of the most common reasons for the death in scorpions is the moult. The scorpion has a tough outer covering, a cuticle, that forms a rigid exoskeleton. All scorpions must shed their old exoskeleton and secrete a new one in order to grow, this is called the moult. Scorpions will moult from 6 to 10 times during their lifetime. This moulting process takes a lot of energy and they are very vulnerable for a couple of days after the moult until their new skin hardens. For about 24 hours prior to moulting it is not unusual for a scorpion to get quite sluggish. A difficult moult can result in lost or deformed limbs, or death. This is thought to be related to humidity levels. There can be either too much humidity or too little, depending on the species. In captivity a lot of immature scorpions die during the moulting process.

Other problems

Though many scorpions can go for long periods of time without eating, overfeeding can cause an overly swollen stomach as well as the loss of appetite, and even death. The stomach can be slightly swollen from regular eating, and this is not a problem. Another problem can be an infestation of mites. Uneaten food can attract mites, which are very dangerous and stressful to scorpions. Be sure to remove old food.

Gallery

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  A Yellow Fattail scorpion viewed under UV light

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  A Yellow Fattail Scorpion

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  A Yellow Fattail Scorpion in the desert

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  Yellow Fattail Scorpion’s begin the mating process