This is a specific care sheet for Domestic Ferrets (Mustela putorius furo), for more in this genus see Category:Mustela.

Introduction

Domestic ferrets are now thought to have been domesticated for over 2000 years, and they have an undeserved reputation of being smelly. It is true that they have a distinctly musky odour about them, but it is not particularly obtrusive or offensive.

Female ferrets are called jills, and males are hobs. Baby ferrets are called kits. In some placesr, spayed females are sometimes called sprites and neutered males called gibs. A group of ferrets is a ‘business of ferrets’.

It is estimated that there is a population of over 1.5 million ferrets now kept in captivity world-wide.

Description

The domestic ferret Mustela putorius furo lives 6-8 years on average but can reach ages up to 11 or 12. Females are 13-14 inches long and weigh anywhere from 0.75 to 2.5 lbs, whereas males are on average 15-16 inches long and weigh 2-3.5 lbs if neutered and are even larger (4 or more lbs) if not neutered.

Behaviour

Ferrets need to be with other ferrets and it is unkind to keep one ferret on its own. Either males or females from the same litter can live happily together. Although ferrets can appear very tame, they are not easy to look after as they need a great deal of space and may try to escape.

Ferrets sleep a large part of the day, commonly around 18 hours. They naturally tend to be active at dawn and dusk, but usually adapt their sleeping and active times to the fit the schedules of their owners. They are very playful, and are very entertaining to watch.

Ferrets make fantastic pets, they are lots of fun and very sociable. Ferrets enjoy exploring, playing and running about.

Buying a Ferret

Buy your ferret from a respectable breeder, pet shop or rescue centre. Buying an older ferret means it is more likely to have been litter trained, and should be much calmer. Buying from a shelter means staff can give you an idea of the ferrets personality and individual habits.

Where ever you chose to buy your ferrets from, ensure it is in good health before purchase, also find out what guarantees you have should your ferret become ill shortly after you take it home.

Here are a few ideas of what you should look for in a healthy ferret;

• Bright eyes that are free from crusting and other substances
• Healthy skin
• Soft coat
• The ferret should appear alert
• Ferrets should be naturally curious
• The animal shouldn’t be sneezing
• Clean bottom
• Healthy appetite

Enclosure

Allow your new ferret time to get accustomed to its new surroundings; it should be at least a day before you start picking it up and playing with it. Give your ferret plenty of food and water, and talk to your ferret so it gets used to your voice, while getting used to its new environment.

Ferrets can live in doors or out, but either way they will enjoy the company of another ferret.

Indoor Enclosure

Avoid glass aquariums as they do not allow enough air flow. Cages should be big enough for your ferret to play, and should have at least two levels. Be sure the cage door fastens securely, as ferrets are master escape artists. The cage should be kept away from draughts and direct sunlight.

You may wish to let your ferret have a free run of the house. Know that ferrets can be quite destructive; ripping up carpets and chewing things they shouldn’t. You will need to ferret proof your home ensuring they can not chew through electric cables, get stuck behind or in furniture, or eat any toxic plants or chemicals. It is advisable to cage your ferret when you are not in the house. If you do wish to let your ferret have free reign you will need to have it litter trained.

Provide plenty of bedding; a deep, clean layer of wood shavings on the floor (dust and oil free shavings) and plenty of fresh meadow hay as ferrets enjoy burrowing. Add items of interest such as hammocks, tunnels and toys to their home. Many owners add old clothing or towels as bedding in their ferrets home as the cloth can be washed and ferrets enjoy snuggling up in the fabric.

Their home should be tidied every day and thoroughly cleaned every week.

Place the food and water bowls and bottles on a separate level from the litter pan.

Outdoor Enclosure

If you intend on keeping your ferret out doors, buy the biggest out door habitat you can. If housing one ferret the minimum size should be 4ft x 2ft. You will need more space if you are housing more than one ferret. A two storey rabbit hutch is ideal. Keep the hutch in a sheltered area, away from adverse weather conditions.

Ferrets suffer from heat exhaustion, and can get overwhelmed by heat very quickly. Do not put the hutch in direct sunlight. Always ensure your ferret has a constant supply of fresh water, and that it is always accessable.

Provide a run for your ferret too and fill it with lots of toys so that they won’t get bored. These could include logs and branches, boxes, flowerpots and drainpipes. Many owners add old clothing or towels as bedding in their ferrets home as the cloth can be washed and ferrets enjoy snuggling up in the fabric.

Ensure that the outdoor enclosure is also protected from predators such as foxes and snakes depending on whereabouts in the world you live.

Health

Ferrets must be vaccinated against the potentially fatal disease canine distemper. Your veterinary surgeon will be able to advise you on this.

Ferrets can suffer from heat exhaustion, so do not leave the ferrets’ home in direct sunlight. They should recover from any over-exposure if they are moved to a cool dark room and given plenty of water, but the situation is easily avoided.

Ferrets can catch the influenza virus from humans, and you should keep away from ferrets if you have the flu. Keep an infected ferret away from the others and seek veterinary advice straight away.

If a ferret is constantly scratching, producing bald patches in its fur and broken patches in its skin, it may have mange. Seek veterinary advice straight away.

Ferrets can suffer from parasites if their bedding is not kept clean. Check ferrets’ ears and coat regularly and seek veterinary advice if there is any sign of mites.

If you have any concerns about the health of your ferrets, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.

Feeding your Ferret

Ferrets, like most animals have their own specific dietary requirements. Thought, consideration and expense are required when choosing the correct food. Ferrets are carnivores and need a diet that consists mainly of meat, and this means that they will cost a little more to feed than a rabbit or guinea pig. They lack the ability to digest vegetable matter. So fruit and veg should be limited to a treat.

Ferrets can not eat a huge amount in one go, therefore they need a concentrated diet to get all the calories and nutrients they need to keep fit and healthy. A ferret’s diet should be high in protein and energy, and low in fibre. The food needs to have 30-35% protein and 15-20% fat, and animal protein should be the first ingredient and at least two or three of the next few.

If you feed your ferret a diet of mostly moist/minced meat your ferret will be likely to developed high tarter levels and have bad breath. If your ferret will eat chunks of meat and bone, do so as tarter is less likely to develop with chunks of meat. Ferrets will also eat chicks, mince, heart, liver, eggs.

When feeding your ferret bone, ensure they are large pieces of bone, as small sharp pieces and pierce your ferrets mouth, throat or gut.

It is important feed your ferret correctly from an early age. Ferrets get used to eating certain foods and brands, and changing them can prove tricky. Your ferret may not like any new food you try and introduce, and only eat what it needs to survive. It is therefore best to feed your ferret with a variety of food from a young age so your ferret is accustomed to a variety of textures and flavours, and does not get hooked on one type of food.

Tuarine should be included in your ferret’s diet, either included in the dried food or added as a supplement. Tuarine is found naturally in poultry and organ meats such as beef, and lamb hearts. You may wish to add other supplements to your ferret’s diet, such as extra vitamins or cold liver oil/fish oil.

Ferrets with a diet rich in carbohydrates (as found in some dried food, and dog food) are considered more likely to develop insulinoma (a cancer of the pancreas).

Treats do not need to be given to your ferret, as they should get everything they need from their diet. However treats are a helpful training tool, make sure treats are given sparingly. An ideal treat is a piece of banana, apple or a few raisins. Do not give your ferret dairy food or milk, chocolate or sweets.

Ferrets are known to hide their food (and anything else they take a shine to) and may have a secret hidey hole. Be aware where this hiding place is, as you probably don’t want secret stashes of raw meat and other foods in your home.

Be sure to keep water available at all times. As well, and change the water daily for freshness.

Dog food does not contain taurine and is high in carbohydrates and is not appropriate to feed your ferret.