This is a specific care sheet for Rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus), for more in this genus see Category:Oryctolagus.
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This article is about domesticated European rabbits. For general information on all rabbit species, see Rabbit.
Contents
Rabbits as Pets
Rabbits are now the third most popular pet in the UK after cats and dogs. It is estimated that 1.5 million are kept as pets. Many people have now began to allow their rabbits the same comforts normally associated with cats and dogs, and now keep their pets in the house rather than the traditional hutch. Wherever you decide to keep your rabbit, they all have the same basic needs.
Rabbits make excellent pets. Their friendly, quiet demeanour, soft fur, and warm eyes have captured the hearts of rabbit owners for years. In general, rabbits are very affectionate and enjoy human interaction as well as the company of other rabbits. In fact, if paired with the right mate, a rabbit can form a close bond for life. Rabbits are most active at dawn and twilight and seek a quiet corner for a nap during the midday. This schedule makes them particularly well suited to working families. There are approximately 50 different breeds of rabbits with wide variations in size, ear length, and colour. From the 15-pound Flemish giant, to the petite 3-pound Netherlands dwarf, to the French lop with 10-inch long ears, there is a rabbit to suit almost every personality.
Rabbits can be stimulating pets and the domestic rabbit is now one of the most commonly kept small animals. Many people continue to keep their pet in a small hutch, perhaps sited at the bottom of the garden. Such rabbits may live a miserable existence in cramped and uncomfortable conditions, with no area provided for exercise. Poor housing is one of the main reasons for ill health in rabbits.
Please note, rabbits should not be housed with other rabbits unless all are spayed and neutered. Introductions are often difficult and injuries can result, so please introduce them in neutral territory, under careful supervision.
Choosing a Rabbit
Before adopting a rabbit or looking for one too adopt you need to consider whether you can provide everything your new bunny will need. A rabbits life span is 7-10 years and you will need to meet your rabbits needs for this length of time.
Rabbit Breeds
Housing
As discussed, rabbits may be kept inside or outside. If you keep your rabbit outside they will require a secure hutch and a suitable size run. Accommodation must be secure from predators, and provide adequate protection from the weather. Other pets and nearby animals including dogs, cats and foxes may kill a rabbit if they are given the opportunity. Rabbits need a warm, dry area to shelter from rain and snow, and shade on hot days. Many commercial hutches are too small, and to provide your rabbit with suitable accommodation you may need to improvise and build your own, this can be achieved by joining several together or have one custom made. Rabbits will need both a sheltered hutch or sleeping area and a run for exercise. The size of the accommodation needed will also depend on the size of rabbit you are getting, large breeds will need very large accommodation. The larger your bunny’s home the better. You rabbit should be able to stand up on his/her back legs without banging the top of the hutch or run and have room to run and play. It is recommended that a run should be at least 120cm X 300cm X 75cm high (4′ X 10′ X 2½’ high).
If your rabbit is going to live inside it will need a litter tray and a hutch or sleeping area. The house will also need to be ‘bunny proofed’. Electrical wires, poisonous plants, books etc will all need to be out of reach. You will also need to be prepared for the possibility that your new rabbit will get a feel for everything in it’s new environment with it’s teeth leaving minor damages.
Rabbits love the two-story cages with ramps connecting the different levels. Solid flooring is best, because a rabbit’s feet can become irritated and inflamed if in constant contact with wire floors. With time and patience, your rabbit can be litter box trained. Place the litter box in a corner of the cage the rabbit has already soiled, and provide a safe litter such as hay, composite recycled newspaper pellets, or organic litter made from alfalfa or oats.
Bedding
If you include bedding in the cage, appropriate choices include shredded paper (avoid shiny ads that can contain toxic substances), certain hardwood shavings, or composite recycled newspaper pellets. Cedar and pine shavings are not recommended, because they contain resins that can be irritating to your pet’s skin, eyes, and mucous membranes. Hay can also be used as bedding.
Diet
Adults
Rabbits require 18-20% fibre, of which 10% should be crude indigestible fibre. Protein levels should be 17-18% for breeding stock, 15% for growth, and 12-13% for maintenance. The recommended level for fat is 3% for pregnancy and 1% for maintenance.
Vegetables
There are different opinions regarding which vegetables are the best for rabbits. Most enthusiasts agree that carrots, carrot tops, broccoli, and parsley are safe, and that beans, potatoes, and some lettuces can be problematic. It is best to feed at least 3 types of greens daily (along with carrot, perhaps), because feeding one type only can lead to nutrient imbalances (Brown 1994). However, such imbalances are less likely to occur if at least a small amount of pellets is given each day.
Kale, mustard greens and spinach contain high levels of oxalates, the salts of oxalic acid, which can accumulate in the system and cause toxicity over time. Because they are highly nutritious and loved by most rabbits, rather than eliminating these vegetables from your the diet, limit your use of them to 1-3 meals a week. One method is to feed kale (with other veggies) for several days until 1-2 bunches are gone, then avoid buying it again for a week or so. The same precautions can be taken with the veggies that are high in calcium if your rabbit is prone to urinary tract stones. Particularly for rabbits who eat no or few pellets, try to include at least one veggie daily that is high in vitamin A such as carrots, collard or mustard greens, endive, or parsley. If these instructions seem complex, simplify things by making sure you vary your rabbit’s diet as much as possible to avoid giving too much or too little of any one food.
The most important aspect of increasing the amount of vegetables in a rabbit’s diet is to do so gradually. Even if a particular vegetable is safe for your rabbit, giving her a cupful when she is unaccustomed to such riches could wreak havoc on her digestive tract. Instead, begin with something that has been previously successful, such as carrot. Increase the amount slightly, and as long as no diarrhea occurs, add a small portion of a new veggie every few days. This way, you can be sure which food is causing the difficulties if digestive problems are experienced.
The best fresh foods for rabbits are those that have been grown organically, without the use of pesticides. In any case, be sure to wash your rabbit’s vegetables thoroughly. Rather than scraping carrots (which removes the nutritious skin), scrub them with a vegetable brush. The key is to remove any dirt or pesticide residue, and to check carefully for rotted areas. Unless you are sure wild dandelions are protected from pesticides, check at your local health food store for organically grown ones.
Treats
A treat should be enjoyable to eat and provide interaction between you and your pet. When fed in limited quantities, herbs that are fresh or dried or fruits can be offered as treats. It is best to feed the same treats consistently, so as to avoid shocking your rabbits digestive system and potentially causing problems.
Fresh Water
A water bottle can be attached to the wire front of the hutch. The water should be changed on a daily basis and the container scrubbed out regularly
Exercise
They may be small, but rabbits require a lot of room for housing and exercise. They have powerful hind legs designed for running and jumping. Your rabbit needs a safe exercise area with ample room to run and jump, either indoors or out. Any outdoor area should be fully enclosed by a fence. Never leave a rabbit unsupervised outdoors, cats, dogs and even predatory birds may attempt to attack your rabbit if presented with the oppurtunity. Also, rabbits can dig under fences and get lost. You can rabbit-proof an indoor area by covering all electrical wires and anything else your pet is likely to chew. Preferably, rabbits should be allowed 1 hour of exercise in the morning and a further 2 hours in the evening.
Handling
Pick up your rabbit by supporting his forequarters with one hand and his hindquarters with the other—failure to do so can result in spinal injuries to the rabbit. Never pick up a rabbit by his ears; this can cause very serious injury.
Rabbits are physically delicate and fragile, and require specialized veterinary care. It’s true that children are naturally energetic and loving, but loving to a small child means holding, cuddling, or carrying an animal around, and these are precisely the things that frighten most rabbits. Rabbits can’t verbally display their distress, so they may start to scratch or bite to protect themselves from well-meaning children. Many rabbits are also dropped accidentally by children, resulting in broken legs and backs. While a rabbit may be a great pet for your family, an adult should be the primary caretaker.
Grooming
Hair
Brush your rabbit regularly with a soft brush to remove excess hair and keep his coat in good condition. Brush from the back of the head down to the tail.
Toes
Ask your veterinarian for information and, if possible, a demonstration on how to clip your pet’s nails.
Teeth
Neutering
Breeding
Take a look at the Breeding Rabbits article.